FAQ

Direct Drive machines are more compact, and will cost less up front, but if you plan to use the regularly then it might not be the best option for you. The pump on a Direct Drive pressure washer has a hollow shaft that slides directly onto the drive shaft of the motor or engine. Therefore, the pump will be turning at the same RPM’s as the motor (typically 3450 RPM for a gas engine, or 1725-3450 for electric motors) which reduces the life of the pump, especially from heavy use. The vibration from the motor is also transferring directly to the pump which causes more “wear and tear” over time. These units are ideal for occasional use, so if you plan to use your washer daily, or even weekly, then saving a few hundred dollars up front will not pay off in the end.

Belt Drive pressure washers are setup so that the pump and motor or engine is mounted to a pulley system that is driven by one or more belts. This allows the pump to turn at a much lower RPM which keeps the pump cooler and extends its lifespan. This system helps isolate the pump from the heat of the engine or motor, and the belts and pulleys help absorb the vibration from the motor which reduces pump fatigue. Belt drive pumps also have a larger oil capacity which helps to keep the pump cooler. These units are designed for heavy, everyday use. The initial cost is higher, but you will save time and money down the road if you intend to use your washer regularly.

Knowing what size nozzle to use in your pressure washer is extremely important to maintaining the integrity of your pump. Using a nozzle that is too big is not necessarily a threat, but using a nozzle that is too small can quickly start to cause issues that could rapidly get worse if ignored. Use the chart below to determine your appropriate nozzle size by locating your PSI rating from the top axis, and then following the column down until you have reach the number closest to the gpm on your unit.

Nozzle Chart [PDF]

Clean or replace the nozzle immediately. Clogged nozzles cause excessive pressure build-up in your pump and can easily cause damage.

Yes, we offer onsite hose repairs for all 3/8” pressure hoses. However, if your hose has more than one leak you may need to replace it.

The unloader is a crucial component to ensuring the longevity of your pump and pressure washer.

It diverts the water flow to circulate back through the pump while your trigger gun valve is released (closed). This is called “Bypass Mode.” Unloaders are made to respond to a change in pressure or water flow. They also allow you to adjust the pressure on your machine by twisting the adjuster bolt: twisting right raises pressure & twisting left will decrease pressure.

It’s important that you do not leave your machine in bypass mode for too long because the pump is still running. The recirculating water will continue to build pressure and heat due to friction within the pump head. will eventually cause the unloader to defect. Furthermore, most pumps are only able to withstand temperatures up to 140 degrees Fahrenheit, so it is smart to install a Thermal or Pressure Relief Valve on the pump as a backup. It’s always best to power off your machine if you need to stop using it for more than a minute or two, but if you must leave it running then be sure to squeeze trigger gun every minute or so to release the pressure in the pump. It is also always important that you do this every time you power your machine off.

Your pump oil should be changed around every 500 hours using a Non-Detergent 10W-30 oil. If you notice that your pump oil looks cloudy or murky then its probably time for a change. Most industrial pumps have a drainage hole at the bottom of the pump which can be loosened by a wrench. Draining your oil this way is much more effective than pumping it out & will help extend the life of your pump. When you are ready to refill the oil, remember to use the sight glass on the pump (if applicable) to ensure you don’t overfill your pump. The dot in the middle of the sight glass indicates the fill line. It’s a good practice to always check your oil level before running your machine.

Your motor oil should be changed about every 100 hours or when the oil appears murky. Your engine should also have a drainage port for the motor oil. Be sure to use a drain pan to catch all oil & dispose of properly. Your motor will typically take 10W-30 motor oil. Use your oil dipstick to ensure you do not overfill. Ideally your oil level should fall right in the middle of the two indicator lines on the dipstick.

1. Drain the Gas if you plan to store for 30 days or longer. It takes Gasoline around 30 days to go stale. Running old gas through your machine can cause various malfunctions and can lead to some costly repairs. Furthermore, most gasoline sold in the US is Ethanol based which begins to deteriorate the minute it is pumped. This breakdown causes corrosion, rust and build-up in your tank. Add a Fuel Treatment Stabilizer before storing your unit, run for a few minutes to allow the treatment to circulate. Then turn off your system.
2. Drain your pump. This is important especially in freezing temperatures, but also to prevent grime and mold build-up in your pump. When you are finished using your machine, turn it off while holding the trigger on your spray gun until all water has drained. Disconnect all garden hoses and high-pressure hoses and make sure those are drained as well. If you live in extreme cold temperatures, you may want to do an anti-freeze flush as well.
3. Protect your pump by using a Pump Saver Oil. These bottles attach directly to the garden hose inlet of your pump. Pull the Recoil handle twice to flush oil through the pump. This helps prevent not only freezing, but also rust and over-drying.
4. Store your unit in a clean, dry place to avoid external corrosion.

Simply multiple the gpm x psi of your machine to calculate cleaning energy units. For example, a 4gpm machine @ 4000psi = 16,000 CUs